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a restaurant with strong local flavor and a low-food-miles ethos. The
eatery is owned by a local couple with a passion for the produce of
Mid Wales. Indeed, most of the ingredients come from within a 12-
mile radius of the kitchen. The meat of my slow-cooked lamb shank
glides elegantly off the bone, while the seasonal vegetables are
crunchy and earthy.
Back to the Trail
The next day, I’m back on Glyndwr’s Way. I’m joined by a guide,
Romy Shovelton, who will escort me through some of the more
rugged landscape of Mid Wales. We’ve picked up the path after a
fortifying coffee and lemon-drizzle cake at the Machinations Cafe in
the village of Llanbrynmair.
Today’s walking route takes us past gurgling brooks, yellow
flowering gorse, and stoic, stone-built barns defiant against the ele-
ments. “I love the landscape of Mid Wales,” Romy tells me as we
hike. “I moved here from an urban life in London. I first came as a vis-
itor, but then I felt like I was supposed to be here, caring for this land.”
As we cross the coniferous Dyfnant Forest, elegant red kites soar
overhead on their long wings. We reach the Royal Society for the
Protection of Birds (RSPB) at placid Lake Vyrnwy, a nature reserve
with a visitor center, bird-watching blinds, and nature trails.
Kingfishers show off their vibrant colors and hunting skills under the
arches of the stone dam. There are several color-coded, forested
nature walks around the lake, and they’re all alive with regular sight-
ings of redwings, bramblings, and siskins.
End of the Road
The final stage of Glyndwr’s Way leads on toward Welshpool, where
walkers can celebrate the end of their pilgrimage with a pint of local
ale, and make train connections back across Mid Wales. The tangible
traces of Glyndwr’s story are scant at this end of the trail. It’s as if they
have long since faded into the swirling mists of time. Historians
believe that Glyndwr’s last battle was fought, and lost, at Shrewsbury
in 1410. There is no recorded grave, but rumors persist that he
evaded capture and lived out his days quietly in Hereford. Some
speculate that the rebel is not, in fact, dead, but merely resting. Six
hundred years after his (supposed) death, the legacy of Owain
Glyndwr lives on. ■
David Atkinson is a travel writer and blogger based in northwestern
England. Read more stories at atkinsondavid.com; follow him on Twitter
@atkinsondavid.
RESORT DIRECTORY:
CLIMATE: Weather is
generally mild, though
unpredictable, and can be quick
to change. Rain falls evenly
throughout the year.
DON’T MISS: A visit to the
National Library of Wales in
Aberystwyth.
INTERVAL TRAVEL:
CURRENCY: British pound
sterling (£)
TIPPING: Not mandatory, but
typically allow 10% for
restaurants with table service.
RENTAL CAR:
Recommended
VISITOR INFORMATION:
fast FACTS
Check out a Welsh university
town. Aberystwyth is Mid
Wales’ largest community,
home to Aberystwyth University, an arts
center, the National Library of Wales,
and beaches along its bay.
Lose yourself in natural
beauty. Go bird-watching in
the Cambrian Mountains,
mountain bike in Snowdonia and Brecon
Beacons national parks, and stare at the
sea along the Cardigan Bay Coast.
8 9 Chart a National Trail. There are 15
designated National Trails in the U.K.,
walking routes that pass some of
Britain’s best scenery, and two are in the heart of
Mid Wales. The Offa’s Dyke Path traces the
English/Welsh border for 177 miles from Prestatyn
to the Sedbury Cliffs, and Glyndwr’s Way,
described in the story above, spans 135 miles from
Welshpool to Machynlleth to Knighton.
10
The Wonders of Wales
Make an exchange or buy a Getaway at
Getaway price is valid March 26 through October 22, 2016.