IWNA

hen the Almoravids raised Marrakech’s mighty walls

in the 11th century, surely they never guessed that the

medina

(old

town) would remain intact and virtually unchanged nearly a millennium

later. But while roaming the souks (markets) can feel like medieval

time travel, elsewhere, Marrakech has rushed headfirst into the 21st

century with on-trend boutiques and glamorous dinner clubs. Indeed,

Morocco’s Red City walks a fine tightrope between past and present,

chaotic and blissfully calm, pulling off the entire act with inimitable

style. Consider the following three-day itinerary to pinpoint must-sees

and get your vacation started. If you have additional time, explore at

a more leisurely pace — or seek out your own Marrakech delights.

Day 1:

Medina Magic

Begin your trip by throwing yourself in the deep end: Djemaa el-

Fna. This sprawling, disjointed square feels like stepping onto a

giant film set, complete with snake-charming, monkey-balancing,

drum-beating theatrics. The name translates as “assembly of the

dead”; fittingly, it was once a public execution ground. It is very

much alive today, however, and serves as the centerpiece for

Marrakech’s medina.

Wander around the square and you’ll soon become part of the

show. Keep spare change handy for the juice carts or if you fancy hav-

ing your photo taken with a tassel-hatted water carrier, a cobra, or a

cheeky Barbary macaque. And if you don’t want a shoeshine or henna

tattoo, the golden rule is to say “

Non, merci

” and just keep walking.

From the square’s northern flank, you can easily dive into the

mazy souks, where the bewildering twists

and turns leave even cartographers baf-

fled. Quite frankly, you’re bound to get lost

at some point (It’s part of the fun!) so heed

this navigational tip: locate one of the

main arteries, and you can find your way

out. Just don’t leave until you find Au Fil

d’Or at 10 Souk Semmarine, for beauti-

fully tailored kaftans. A little farther on, at

Patisserie Belkabir, the syrupy Moroccan

sweetmeats make terrific gifts.

Diverting off this main drag brings you to other souks, such as

the Criée Berbère, where Berbers haul their hand-woven rugs to

the daily 4:00 auction. Souk Smata brims with spangled babouche

slippers, and you’ll want your camera handy for Souk Sebbaghine,

where brightly hued skeins hang to dry against sunbaked walls.

Miracle lotions and potions are sold in the herbalist stores lining

Rahba Qedima square. Or, you can simply sit back and survey the

action over a spiced coffee and snack at Café des Épices.

After a morning of haggling, it’s time for a cultural afternoon,

so stop in to Ali Ben Youssef Medersa, a former Quranic school

and a textbook example of Moroccan craftsmanship. The current

building dates to the 16th century, and its geometric

zellij

tiles and

lace-fine stucco are dazzlingly intricate.

Book a table for dinner at gastro mk, the renowned restaurant

at maison mk hotel, and end your day with a five-course tasting of

Moroccan-French flavors. (Note: gastro mk limits its external guests

to 10 per night, so be sure to call ahead to make a reservation.)

Day 2: Rock the Kasbah

There’s still plenty to see in the medina, but swing your focus south

of Djemaa el-Fna. As the city wakes up, go for a walk along Rue

Riad Zitoun el-Jedid, which has a more laid-back vibe than the

souks. The cobbled, bazaar-like street provides a tantalizing slice

of local daily life, with cubbyhole carpentry workshops, apothe-

caries, groceries, bakeries, and tailors, where old Singer sewing

machines are still en vogue.

INTERVAL WORLD Spring 2015 IntervalWorld.com

It’s quite easy to spend much more money than you had planned at Djemaa

el-Fna unless you have your wits about you. Remember, no photograph is free,

and those wily snake charmers and smiling Gnaoua musicians are out to extract

as many tourist dirhams as they can. The typical going rate for a snapshot is 10dh

to 20dh.

Haggling is expected in the souks, but how low can you go? As a rule of thumb, start by knocking

70 percent off the first quoted price. Then, work from there toward a more realistic 50 percent. You’ll

need to be polite but firm to strike the best deal.

Petit taxis (often Peugeots on their last legs) are cheaper than grand taxis (Mercedes). Ask the driver

to switch on the meter if it’s working, or agree on a price beforehand. Most of the medina is off-limits

to all forms of traffic — save mule-driven carts.

Some

Inside

Scoop

RIGHT: Morocco was a

French protectorate for

many years, and the

latter’s influence is felt in

the cuisine today.

FAR RIGHT: Soaring 230 feet

above the city, Koutoubia is

one of Marrakech’s most

recognizable landmarks;

many visitors use the

mosque as a reference

point to navigate around

the city.