IWNA 2019 Issue 2

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INTERVAL WORLD ■ Issue 2, 2019 51
©thierrydehove.com/Getty Images; ablokhin/Getty Images; Joel Carillet/Getty Images
We were trying to describe the utterly mouth-
watering appetizer we were devouring, but coming
up short. Mostly because our collective vocabulary
was deteriorating with every bite. It took just one
plate of shrimp tempura to go from the shrimp is
so tender, and the batter is so fluffy and light to
oh-ma-gosh they’re soooo good to, finally, unintelli-
gible groans of delight.
There were four of us — our good friends,
Shawn and Valeria; my wife, Michelle, and I — on
St. Maarten, the little island that’s split between
Dutch and French sides, but unified in that it’s argu-
ably the culinary capital of the Caribbean.
Except that wasn’t why we were here. We
knew about St. Maarten’s foodie reputation, but we
came for the beaches. Digging our toes in the sand
at Orient Bay, Maho Beach, Grand Case, Dawn
Beach, Baie Rouge, and as many of the other more
than 35 Caribbean strands as possible was our
main priority. Don’t get me wrong — I appreciate a
top-notch dish as much as any wannabe Gordon
Ramsay. It’s just that after a day of sitting beneath
a big umbrella sipping cocktails adorned with small
umbrellas, I prefer enjoying a simple dinner to put-
ting on resort-formal attire for a fancy spread.
To our delight, we quickly discovered that we
could have our cake and eat it, too. More spe-
cific to our preferences, we could enjoy a range of
impeccable cuisine without ever setting foot inside
the restaurants from which it was served. So, we
spent the entire week eating alfresco, partaking in
what are now some of my all-time favorite meals,
never even changing out of our swimsuits.
THE SPECIALS BOARD
It all started at Orient Bay during our first full day on
the island. We arrived late morning and by virtue of
where we parked, happened to walk right past a
place called Bikini Beach. It’s a proper restaurant,
but also offers lounge chairs and umbrellas for rent
on the sand as an extension of their patio. This
looks as good as anywhere, we decided. Before
long, Paul, the friendly proprietor, delivered a round
of Miami Vices (a half-and-half combination of fro-
zen strawberry daiquiri and piña colada), and, drinks
in hand, we sat back to enjoy the scene.
There were a few men rigging up kitesurfing
gear to our right. Jet skis buzzed across the bay.
A retired couple in matching bathing suits saun-
tered up and down the beach. And a group of kids
bounced on a massive inflatable trampoline posi-
tioned 20 yards offshore.
We mostly watched, making occasional pil-
grimages across the white sand and into the
turquoise water to cool off. After a couple of hours,
it was time to get something to eat. Paul brought
menus and propped up a 3-foot-tall chalkboard —
the daily specials board — in front of our chairs.
And that’s when I knew beach dining on this island
wasn’t like beach dining elsewhere.
One of the specials was a salade nicoise
sandwich. I’m more of a cheeseburger guy, but
something about the hand-scribed specials board—
wedged into the sand, with all manner of people
taking part in all manner of water activities in the
background — had hypnotized me. “I’ll take the
sandwich special,” I said.
Orient Bay is one of the many
strands on the island where
you can enjoy a cloth-napkin
gourmet meal while keeping
your toes in the sand.
ABOVE: Cool off and unwind
with a frozen cocktail —
whether you’re into piña
coladas, strawberry daiquiris,
or something else entirely.
TOP RIGHT: Keep your camera
handy while lounging on
Maho Beach to capture
an unforgettable selfie
when low-flying airplanes
take off or approach for
landing at Princess Juliana
International Airport.