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laimed in the
name of
King James I in
1625, Barbados
was originally
named Little
England.
Throughout the centuries, the nickname has endured— for good rea-
son. From history and architecture to sports and cuisine, Barbados
(or B’dos, as the residents call their homeland) is a destination admir-
ers of English culture will surely adore.
BITS AND BOBS
For more than three centuries, Barbados was a British colony, its
most enduring presence in the Caribbean until the 1960s, when
the little island and many others in the region gained their inde-
pendence from the Crown. Its Parliament was established in 1639,
making Barbados the third-oldest parliamentary democracy in the
Commonwealth. Today, it is broadly recognized as the most British
of the Caribbean islands.
Yet, technically, Barbados is not in the Caribbean. It is the farthest
east of the Lesser Antilles in the West Indies and is surrounded by
the Atlantic Ocean. The east coast receives breezes across 3,000
miles of open water that some say is the freshest air on the planet.
The west side of the island, which is just 21 miles long and 14 miles
wide, is greatly influenced by the calm waters of the Caribbean, but
still, it’s the Atlantic that you’ll dip your toes in here.
Of course, English (with a touch of African patois) is the official
language, and the local lingo includes many of the British expres-
sions that make most Anglophiles swoon. Sometimes it’s just the
smallest of things, such as calling an elevator a lift or a television a
telly, or your presence in Barbados a holiday rather than a vacation.
And, of course, it’s not what they say so much as how they say it.
Even while on crowded roadways, where automobiles are on the
left, there is a sense of courtesy and dignity that remains consistent
with their British heritage.
One other note— the people of Barbados call themselves Bajans,
and invite you to do so as well.
BARBADOS’ BRITISH ARCHITECTURE
To kick off your Anglophile explorations, it’s only appropriate to start
where the first British settlers came ashore on Barbados’ western
coast. Originally named Jamestown in homage to their king, today
the area is known as Holetown, a nod to the small channel known as
“The Hole” where incoming ships once dropped anchor. An obelisk
near the police station memorializes the inaugural English arrival.
Anyone intrigued by history or architecture will want to spend
some time taking in Holetown’s St. James Parish Church.
Surrounded by massive mahogany trees and an ancient cemetery
with moss-covered headstones, the light-stone structure stands
on the oldest piece of consecrated land on the island, lovingly
called “God’s Acre” by parishioners. First constructed of wood in
1628, the church has gone through multiple rebuilds in the wake
of destructive hurricanes. Its current structure dates to 1874, but
the original church bell, cast in England in 1696, remains to this
day. Parishioners modestly note that their bell is 162 years older
than the bell at London’s Palace of Westminster.
For a uniquely Caribbean-British melding of architectural styles,
set aside some time to admire the vibrant little shopping area of
Chattel Village. Also in Holetown, this open-air retail hub’s stores are
built in the style of plantation chattel houses. In the early days of col-
onization, these compact wooden working-class homes were built to
be quickly disassembled and moved to another plantation as workers
followed the crops. Despite their original simplicity, they are painted in
bright colors and decorated with Victorian architectural features such
as ornate fretwork and carved-wood banisters.
On the other end of the architecture spectrum, take in where
Barbados’ more monied citizens once lived on a stroll through
Speightstown, the second-largest community on the island. You’ll find
many original British colonial structures, once home to the island’s
wealthy merchant class. Located in St. Peter parish, Speightstown
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Be sure to catch the weekly changing of the sentry, a ceremonial
reproduction of what once was a frequent routine at the former British
military post.