transportation hubs, and outside major stores.
I stood in line for grilled
chorizo
sausage on a stick and a cheese
empanada while Michelle walked across the way and bought a fruit
salad with bananas, pineapples, and about three other varieties we
could neither recognize nor pronounce.
Food in hand, we started to mosey back through the heart of
El Centro. Similar to the French Quarter in New Orleans, there’s no
block here that’s not worth seeing at least once. Sure, they might
not all have shops or attractions, but the architecture and ambiance
alone is worth the walk. We made a point to occasionally change
course — a left here, another left up there, then a right — in ways
we knew weren’t the “correct” direction, but we wanted to see as
much as possible.
One moment we were marveling at a stretch of colonial buildings
so bright, they seemed to have been painted their respective reds
and blues and yellows just yesterday, and the next we were deep in
a quiet residential district where green and pink bougainvillea climbed
the houses’ white walls.
Magical Reality
According to local lore, Gabriel García Márquez penned at least a
portion of his
Love in the Time of Cholera
while sitting at some of
the same rickety tables Michelle and I discovered our first evening in
town. Who knows. I’m a Márquez fan though, so I tend to believe it,
just like I believe in the magical happenings of his novels and short
stories. To call Cartagena itself magical is cliché at this point. Still,
while I won’t claim to have seen any ghosts or levitating maidens or
old men with enormous wings during our week in town, I won’t say
any of that would have surprised me either.
After sunset on our final night, we headed toward Plaza
Fernández de Madrid and the nameless restaurants and bar adjacent
to it. Michelle wanted a pizza; I was in the mood for a steak. And we
were both thirsty for an Aguila. (If you must know, we visited this
specific stretch of sidewalk at least once every day.) But when we
arrived, there was a car parked where “our” table should have been.
We were heartbroken. Alfredo waved hello, and then recognized the
problem. “
Un momento
,” he said, and proceeded to the corner.
“Is he really doing what I think he’s doing?” I said to Michelle.
A shrill whistle, followed by a rush of Spanish chatter, split the
calm evening for a few seconds before a young man came jogging
across the street. He nodded to us, and then pulled away in his car.
“Yes, he is,” Michelle said, eyebrows raised watching the
scene unfold.
Alfredo lifted our table out to the street and pulled up two chairs.
The hallmark of Márquez’s best writing is that, to his characters,
the most extraordinary events that take place in the story are as
normal as any other everyday occurrence. After Alfredo put our
table down, he looked at us as if nothing out of the ordinary had
just happened — and then he poured a round of aguardiente. It
might not have been magic per se, but in all my years of traveling,
I’ve yet to experience many moments more magical than that one.
54
INTERVAL WORLD Summer 2015 IntervalWorld.com
Jupiterimages/Exactostock-1598/Glow Images
RESORT DIRECTORY:
IntervalWorld.com
CLIMATE:
Cartagena’s
position on the Caribbean
coast means consistently
warm weather. Daytime
temperatures typically range
from 82ºF to 86ºF.
CURRENCY:
Colombian
peso
DON’T MISS:
An evening
ride through Old Town in a
horse-drawn carriage.
TIPPING:
At many popular
restaurants, 10% is included
with the bill. Give a little extra
for good service. When it’s not
automatically included, leaving
the change — or 10% — is
very much appreciated.
INTERVAL TRAVEL:
IntervalWorld.com
RENTAL CAR:
Unnecessary
unless you want to explore
beyond the city on your own.
Taxis are plentiful.
VISITOR INFORMATION:
Cartagena Tourism Board
57.5.6550211
cartagenadeindias.travel
PROCOLOMBIA
colombia.travel
fast
FACTS
Lose Yourself in Cartagena
Buy a Getaway at IntervalWorld.com.
Getaways start at
$799
for a studio.
The Getaway price is valid from September 1 through November 30, 2015.
Share your
favorite places
to wander on
Many Members. Your Voice.
Get to know the locals over a shot of the unofficial
national drink, aguardiente (fire water).